Buffalo Jump: A site above all sites

Part II

The Vore Buffalo Jump (VBJ) near Sundance, Wyoming is one of the largest preserved big game kill sites in the world, said Dr. Charles Reher, the leading archaeologist who excavated the site, devoting much of his career to get the site protected, researched and donated to UW and the VBJ Foundation. VBJ Board President credits Reher with being a driving force to protect, research and preserve the site.

Reher explains that VBJ is indeed one of the most amazing archaeological sites on the planet, one of the largest and certainly the best-preserved buffalo jump on the Plains.  Most of the Plains Tribes’ Buffalo jumps were at the bottom of a cliff-like structure and so prone to various geological erosions.  Not so for the Vore sinkhole bottom, used for a jump and then extensive and intense butchering needed to transport out all the bison products up, then covered by slope wash until the next set of jumps.

Altogether, 22 different hunts have been documented at the site, the first in 1559 and others until 1,800. The probable Tribal groups to have used the site are shown by the style and quarry sources for the arrow points illustrating the incredible cultural dynamics in the Late Prehistoric/Early Historic era.

The “sink hole” contains thousands of buffalo and hundreds of arrowheads, chips, and fragments.  Included among the animal skeletal remains are predators: grizzly bear, wolves, and hybrid wolves.  Scientists estimate that Native people hunted big game in America for 13,000 years – at the very least 10,000 and in the absence of horses and “jumps” were frequently used.  Many such sites dot the countryside but are not so well preserved as the VBJ due to soil and topography.

Thus, for the vast part of tribal history is America, these long-ago ancestors were extremely dependent upon dogs and stone tools.  The availability and use of horses and metal tools to the Plains Tribes flowered only for a relatively brief time – estimated at about 150 years, but that was enough to revolutionize the cultures and lifestyles.

Prior to that dogs were the key to survival for Plains tribal people, primarily used as beasts of burden, hauling travois as people followed the big game.  One single tanned buffalo tipi, for example weighs about 80 pounds.  Scientists estimate that 5-8 dogs were needed for each tipi in a village.  These wolf hybrids were smaller than a wolf, perhaps the size of a contemporary German shepherd and scientists estimate it took the meat of many bison to sustain them, let alone the people.  At the VBJ the skeletal remains of domesticated hybrids are easily differentiated from wolves because the tips of the fangs were knocked off, probably a technique used by tribal people to make these dogs, much like wolves, more manageable.

It is mind-boggling to consider the amount of physical work and complex planning required to make a successful buffalo jump kill and to salvage the meat and by-products.  At the VBF for example, the tribal people probably camped at “Sand Creek” (not to be confused with the notorious Sand Creek massacre site in Colorado).  It was about three miles from the Jump, the nearest source of water in that otherwise dry region.

Executing a successful hunt required a high degree of planning, organization, knowledge of the animals and terrain, incredibly hard physical labor, and extensive inter-tribal coordination.  First, the buffalo had to be found – the hunts were typically held in the fall when the animals had acquired maximum fat for the winter and temperatures were cooler for processing and preserving the meat and by-products.  Elaborate preparations were then necessary to get the buffalo to the jump, including setting posts and guides.  Buffalo are somewhat near-sighted and will not charge through an obstacle if they cannot see through it.  Thus, the people literally built fences, utilizing rocks, and even setting posts, those lines camouflaged with brush.  Then, the herd had to be carefully encouraged towards that destination, the “herders” most likely disguising themselves in wolf skins and other furs, yet still careful not to stampede the animals who might then bypass the jump.  Even one person could ruin this carefully planned maneuver, so tribal discipline must have been at an all-time high.  Among the Northern Cheyenne, for example, even when horseback hunts were held the tribal military societies were responsible for the behavior of tribal members as a well-laid hunt plan  could be spoiled by even one person in the wrong place at the wrong time, doing the wrong thing.

After a successful stampede, the real work, quite dangerous, began. A typical hunt harvested about 225 animals; dead or dying buffalo littered the relatively small sinkhole floor (about the size of a basketball court) rimmed by steep 50’ foot sides.  These carcasses, weighing up to 1,500 pounds had to be butchered, dismantled, and carted back to the distant camp site for processing.  All parts were utilized. As evidenced at VBJ for example, the skulls were bashed in to obtain and salvage brains used for tanning.

It makes this author wonder if we contemporary Indians, even aided by horses perhaps four-wheelers or helicopters could pull off such a feat.  And how many of us would have the fortitude and strength to do it afoot? It would be challenging.

Tribal people are strong, descending from people who did incredible things like buffalo jump hunts to survive.  Our children need to learn about and appreciate this.  The VBJ provides ample learning opportunities: on-line video sessions; Native archaeological students can apply for paid summer work internships, group tours are held during the summer season – children and student groups especially welcome – and paid tour guide positions are available.  The organization welcomes the participation of Native Americans.  As VBJ Advisory Board member Dr. Richard Littlebear, Northern Cheyenne tribal college president stresses “Our people need to know about this part of our history.”

(Clara Caufield can be reached at acheyennevoice@gmail.com)

 

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